606BD 1.3 – TR-606 Bass Drum clone

This is an update of the 606 Bass Drum clone: version 1.3

Revisions

V1.2:

  • Addition of an op-amp buffer output and correction of the trigger circuit (PNP instead of NPN for Q2)

V1.3:

  • R10, R12 and C5 have been removed.
  • R22 connector has been replaced by a resistor footprint. (47k is fine).

How it works

The 606 Bass Drum uses a double Twin-T damped oscillator. Each oscillator is tuned to a different frequency. The output of each oscillator is mixed together and the “Tone” potentiometer sets the amount of signal from each oscillator to be fed to the output buffer.
The output buffer amplifies the signal to Eurorack compatible levels (+10/-10Vpp).
The input is common for both oscillators.
The input circuitry converts any Gate signal and negative excursions into Trig signal.
The Accent potentiometer and its associated input jack allow you to change the volume. If the jack connector is plugged, the potentiometer is bypassed.

Top view

Bottom view

Build instructions

The build process is straightforward. I recommend to refer to the Interactive BOM (It doesn’t represent the components in a particular order though).
It is easier to start by soldering the smaller parts (diodes, resistors) first and finish with the bigger ones (capacitors, etc).
I also recommend to first tighten the jacks and the potentiometers to the front panel before soldering them.

Most of the components values are written down on the silkscreen. Those values are, to date, correct.

The resistors have no polarity to respect.
Some are mounted either horizontally or vertically. The Interactive BOM lists them separately but they are the same components, and same value.

The diodes are polarized. Please follow the silkscreen marks.
Diodes D4 and D5 can be omitted and replaced by simple jumper wires, but they help protect your module against reversed power supply.
They are mounted vertically. The cathode (the white ring) is up.

The capacitors are divided in two categories: the ceramic or “plastic” ones, which are not polarized, and the Electrolytic (or aluminum) ones, which are polarized.
Only C12 and C13 are aluminum caps and must be carefully oriented. Watch for the longest pin (the positive side). The white band on the capacitor body shows the negative side.

IC U1 is polarized. Pin #1 faces the front side.

The output buffer has a trimmer potentiometer (R23) for setting the output amplitude. Turn Clockwise to increase the output, CCW to decrease it. Adjust until distortion disappears (the maximum amplitude is when “Tone” potentiometer is set on middle position).

The Jack connectors are Cliff CL1334. This kind of Jack socket requires mono jacks.

Documentation

Top side

Bottom side

2 thoughts on “606BD 1.3 – TR-606 Bass Drum clone

  1. Hello David, I was keen to get in touch but couldn’t find your contacts anywhere. Your projects are cool and I really appreciate how well documented everything is. I build the BD606 in a few hours. Are all the caps except the electrolytic meant to be MKT? The accent output sounds good but the main out put sounds a bit thin.

    Cheers

    1. Hello Joseph, thank you very much for your kind words.
      The unpolarized capacitors are either ceramic or plastic (MKT) or whatever is easier or cheaper to source.
      The “Accent” jack connector is not an output but an input: it requires a non null positive voltage. The higher the voltage, the higher the volume (the oscillation) you’ll get.
      If you find the output a bit weak, then try first to apply a higher Accent CV (or turn the Accent potentiometer all the way up).
      If it’s not sufficient, adjust the trim pot R23.
      And if it’s still not enough, modify the values of the output buffer resistors. If you change R24 to 4.7k or 3.3k, the output buffer will have a maximum gain of, respectively, 3 or 4.

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